This is Part Two of my journey from Kuala Lumpur to Kisaran, Sumatra.

Here, I’m met by my driver, Iwan, and we head off for an interesting ride in his van. This only brought us part way. We eventually left the van and I was brought the rest of the way to my hotel on the back of his colorful motorcycle.

It was a fascinating ride in that it offered some insight into the challenges of local life. At one intersection, Iwan rolled down the window and gave some money to a man standing there. Iwan explained that this man was a kind of local gangster. He stationed himself at this intersection, and if you didn’t pay him, you’d end up with a rock through our window or flat tires or worse. It was just a shakedown.

When we reached Kisaran, Iwan spotted a police checkpoint up ahead of us. Had we been stopped by them, it would have been a huge problem with money having to change hands again. So Iwan had to make a long and crazy detour through the back alleys to go in a huge circle to avoid them. It’s just part of life here.

We finally arrived at the Cahaya Asahan Hotel where I checked in to my big, comfortable room. It’s not luxurious by world standards, but it was luxurious to me. I was glad to finally arrive.